Glock Painting - Whether you're on a tight budget or ready to tackle a big project, getting a paint job done has never been easier.
For the DIYer, the best way to finish metal with lots of wood or gunmetal is with a spray finish. Spray coatings are easier to apply than traditional methods such as thermal spraying, which require a lot of equipment and use harmful chemicals.
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Spray coatings come in many colors and finishes and can be applied to almost anything. They protect gun metal from rust and act as a barrier against chemicals that can cause corrosion.
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Spray coatings have become the standard for many custom manufacturers of hunting, tactical or target guns. Blue looks traditional and classic, but for a performance gun that sees a lot of time in the field, a spray finish is a better option. It is cheaper, protects the weapon, can be concealed in the field, and is easier to maintain or repair.
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Before repairing the weapon, you must disassemble the weapon. Make sure it's not loaded, take a few pictures before you start to help you get everything back. Remove rods, carriers, sights, brackets and general mountings. It's good to break the gun as much as possible and enjoy it.
All parts must be cleaned and drained. Acetone works well for this. Also, Brakleen spray cans work well for getting into cracks and crevices.
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At the end, all parts must be cleaned and removed from the solvent and dried without residue. Never handle loose parts without clean gloves.
The hole clip must be connected with a silicone plug. Any other areas that are not covered should be covered with masking tape. Always wear a respirator, not a cheap mask, but a high quality respirator when doing any spraying or spraying. Safety glasses are a must, and leather gloves for sandblasting.
Do a few runs on the cardboard with the spray or noise to see how you get the best results. Use a spray gun or airbrush to adjust the pressure and spray distance recommended for the product you are using. It may take a little experimenting with the air and paint mix to get it right. You want a nice, even subtle finish. Use too much and it looks like paint, not gunk. It is also sent to run, which means you have to clear it and start over. If there is too much air, too little paint, or if you are too far away from the painted part, the paint will dry before you apply the metal. This results in a rough, matte finish that doesn't last long. So practice, practice, practice; spray your gun.
Other requirements depend on your resources. Each section contains the following three sections. The end result is usually reflected in the level of handling of the weapon.
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To be clear, the best way to spray coat is to prepare the metal with sand. The rougher the surface, the better the paint adheres. The best coating is applied by an air compressor using an adjustable spray gun.
However, I understand that this is not always possible in a DIY situation. Don't panic, you can repair your gun without sanding or spray painting and the results are amazing.
DuraCoat and Brownells Aluma-Hyde II air-dry coatings are available in whisper-quiet cans. A rattle jar is named for the metal balls in the jar that stir the liquid and make a distinctive "squeak" sound when the jar is shaken. These cans are printed like a paint can and can be applied to the gun air dry.
Some products can be used for old parts, but most cannot. See the instructions for each product. DuraCoat says you can scrape the metal with a Scotch-Brite pad and spray it on the cleaned metal. I have done this with great results.
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DuraCoat also has a new product called No Sand. After sanding, applying No Sand and Scotch-Brite to all metal surfaces will help prepare the surface for the final DuraCoat application.
Prepare a reduced screen. Plug the hole and tape any other areas you don't want covered with painter's tape. Hang the parts from the wires. Always work on a few pieces separately to get a feel for the spray and pattern. Spray paint in thin layers. It is better to use several thin layers than one thick one. Follow the directions for repeat coatings.
Once the piece is layered to your liking, let it hang and live. Follow the shelf life on the can. Do not handle the components before the treatment period.
With gunpowder, as with everything else, preparation is everything. The best results come from sandblasting the metal. One way is to find a nearby metalworking shop and pay them to blast the parts. If you do this, remove the metal as soon as you can't get them to sound clean.
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Or you can buy tools to do it yourself. Of course, you need an air compressor and a large tank to maintain the pressure during pumping.
Using an airing cupboard is the best method. However, you can get by with an inexpensive sandblaster. Before I bought the cabinet, I used to use my sandbag in a 55 gallon plastic drum, which I cut to capture some of the sand for reuse, or I just sold it assuming I ran out of sand. By all means, do this outside because you don't want abrasive dust in your shop. Always wear a respirator, safety glasses and heavy gloves. Don't think you can do without gloves; Soon you will be in trouble and your hand will swell. Without gloves, it hurts like hell.
Sandblasts parts with 100 grit aluminum oxide. Use 80 to 100 psi for metal and 30 to 40 psi for non-metallic parts such as wood, fiberglass, plastic, or polymer. Anodized aluminum parts require only 30-40 psi. There is no need to remove the anodization, but you need to restart it.
After shooting, nothing should be shiny; All parts should be the same and have a matte finish. If there is a bright spot somewhere, hit it again.
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Obviously, if you are working with sand, you have an air compressor. If provided, it is better to buy a spray gun as well. There are many options for air drying for coatings. Some of the most popular are DuraCoat, Cerakote and Gun Kote. It is made for use on an HVLP type sprayer with a .8mm nozzle.
A spray gun gives you more options when choosing coatings and more control over the spray as you work. Spray guns are not very expensive. You can find them online for $15. My $50, it's been four years and many projects so far.
It is best to use a heat resistant coating. It's not just the short time from spray to assembly, but also the idea that heat-cured coatings have a long-lasting finish.
Baking products include Cerakote H and Elite, DuraCoat's DuraBake, Brownells, Gun-Kote and Teflon/Moly couples. The list goes on and there are many more products on the market, but I only have experience using them. If the parts go into the oven, it's a good idea to use heat tape to cover the unpainted areas.
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If you are using a heat resistant coating, I recommend that you read the instructions and follow the included instructions. There are always different conditions.
Most of the products are kiln-dried, and some chemicals need a little exposure time before placing the plaster in the kiln. The main thing is to hang it so that it does not touch anything. One small brush or brush and you're done again.
There is a word for that. Always have a bucket and metal ready for tricks. You have more than one, so use the recommended solvent to remove the spray coating and start over.
For small batches, a convection toaster oven works well for "cooking" the dough. I added an oven thermometer to better control the heat. I also have magnetic hooks that work well for hanging things.
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If you go to a drugstore oven a
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